X-Chair v1.2 RIP
I was playing with the prototype chair, when tragedy struck.
The X-Chair is now an Ex-Chair.
Couldn’t stop laughing.
Destruction Rules!
About the Author
I was playing with the prototype chair, when tragedy struck.
The X-Chair is now an Ex-Chair.
Couldn’t stop laughing.
Destruction Rules!
i preferred the design direction this x chair was taking over the design of v2.x. in fact, i was considering a similar undertaking. what do you think was the cause of v1’s failure?
Hi +philippe,
The failure of V1.0 boils down to the plywood being way to thin. When I decided to build an x-chair, I chose to build one from memory of what I saw at an event. V1.0 is only a prototype to get angles and lengths. I knew the chair wasn’t going to hold my weight…but I had to try anyway.
I do have plans to build another chair similar to the v1.0, with the exception of losing one arm rest and extending the other, to make a back rest chair.
That is after the long list of projects I had lined up.
Any other questions?
Cheers
so it was choice of materials, not necessarily engineering design flaw, huh. whew! that leaves me feeling a little more confident. i’ve considered using 1×2’s–do you have any thoughts or advice about that (or any other thing!).
the result i want is more along the lines of a straight X chair (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ur8LU-fRITg/SHp_pExRmjI/AAAAAAAAALk/LFS-qQJLyVA/s1600-h/folding+) rather than a curvy peacock/savonarola chair (http://www.mastercharlesoakley.com/peacock_chair.html) but i’m planning to adapt oakley’s peacock chair construction /assembly. it seems very thorough, very detailed, and it’s presented in a way that i understand.
Definatley materials. I have an almost unlimited supply of beautiful small pieces ofmahogany plywood from my work. The down side is its all just under a half inch thick. Good for small projects and prototypes and not much else.
The last two chairs I have made was esentially 1×2 Hardwood lumber, but good quality softwood like Pine or popular would probably work just as well. Proper morticed tenons are a better way to attach the legs, but I used doweling as thats wath I am familar with.
Glad you have checked out Master Oakley’s site. I am in awe of both him, and Tom from Blood&Sawdust.
Good Luck on your project & don’t forget to document your work. Nothing worse than finding you have no images of your work. I am still looking for images of my Pole Lathes, and my turning Class. Always photo document your work.
Cheers
MaryO