Mary Ostler » Wood http://www.maryostler.com Elizabethan Wood Butcher & Builder of Things Thu, 29 Jul 2010 18:15:44 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.9 en hourly 1 Emily’s Highchair v1.7 ~ Short Stuff http://www.maryostler.com/2010/07/emilys-highchair-v1-7-short-stuff/ http://www.maryostler.com/2010/07/emilys-highchair-v1-7-short-stuff/#comments Sun, 25 Jul 2010 19:00:27 +0000 DirtyMary http://www.maryostler.com/?p=2298

Emily turned out to be a rocker. To such a degree, the high chair with its fairly narrow foot print was becoming a bit on the dangerous side. So a year early than I thought, I have cut the legs down to a  child’s height. I had designed the chair so that there was a turned ball just below the foot rail of the chair.  Thus with the lower barley twist leg removed the foot still looked finished. The leg sections that were removed will be made into a foot stool to match the chair, complete with rush fiber webbing.

]]> http://www.maryostler.com/2010/07/emilys-highchair-v1-7-short-stuff/feed/ 3 Triangular Stool ~ V1.1 http://www.maryostler.com/2010/06/triangular-stool-v1-1/ http://www.maryostler.com/2010/06/triangular-stool-v1-1/#comments Thu, 17 Jun 2010 03:09:23 +0000 DirtyMary http://www.maryostler.com/?p=2199 The days are racing past and I am in need of progress on the triangular stool front.

The legs need holes drilled. I used a bit and brace for the first few holes, but pear wood is hard, and I am weak! Drill press it is.

Fitting the first leg with the cross dowels. I made a mistake on were to place the grooves on one of the crossbars, and need to add a fourth grove on the remaining ones. This will make it a little more difficult to drill the holes for the vertical dowels that are in between the cross bars.

Looks like a little stick man. You always start with one leg and work your way out with a triangular stool.

It also helps to make sure all your pieces are labeled. Makes assembly a lot easier.

The front legs have one set of holes drilled.  At this point a ruler is placed across the front legs for two reasons. The first is for the length of crossbars in the front. The span is 1.5″ wider than the back sections. The other reason is to scribe a line for the angle of the drill holes.

The scribed line is then transferred along the edge of the leg using a ledge brought up to the scribe line.

The legs on this stool are narrower than on my original back stool. It hadn’t occurred to me that the 3/4″ drill holes would then be so close together. This means the chair will have a weak point at the joint. I am hoping the strength of the wood will help strengthen the joint compared to the softwood used on the back stool.

The final crossbars loosely placed in the drill holes.

Next up… Cutting the dowels so they fit properly in the holes. Drilling for the vertical dowels, more turning, and then stringing the chair seat.

]]> http://www.maryostler.com/2010/06/triangular-stool-v1-1/feed/ 0 Triangular stool v1.0 http://www.maryostler.com/2010/06/triangular-stool-v1-0/ http://www.maryostler.com/2010/06/triangular-stool-v1-0/#comments Mon, 07 Jun 2010 04:40:34 +0000 DirtyMary http://www.maryostler.com/?p=2182 A.T. War is near at hand, and I have procrastinated on the A&S competition. So with the pool of days diminishing quickly, I decided I better get on with it. My entry is going to be a pole lathe turned triangular stool. I had previously turned a triangular back stool, so it should be a fairly easy build as all the confusing stuff I have previously puzzled out.

Why a stool though?. The competition is to make something on the theme of WAR. Stool doesn’t sound very war like. Well, I am not a fighter, just a mere ostler in the south of Tir Righ (England) . If a war was to break out near my inn, I would have to use what was near at hand. A stool although no match for a true weapon, will still stun one of those Avie bastards when I smash it over their bacon obsessed heads. Just Say’n

So I took a trip to the magical fun time shop of Awesomeness (Windsor Plywood – Burnaby), and saw much to my delight that pear wood slabs were on sale. Not a commonly used wood for furniture construction, but considering I live in an orchard rich area it is probable. Pear wood is an amazing wood, as it is resistant to alot of tear out issues you find in alot of other wood species. I took a slab that had some nice hartwood/sapwood sections. The change in color ads so much awesomeness to wood. The slab was almost big enough to get two full stools out of it. The second stool I will build will have a bit of dogwood to make up for the missing pieces.

I still haven’t got around to making a rip saw. I turned to my trusty table saw to cut the slab down to 1.75″  board. I love the color contrast.

Earlier in the year I was given a new live center for my lathe. Sadly my tail stock doesn’t have a moris taper on it, thus rendering my new toy kind of useless. Useless except for using it in the head stock for pole lathe applications. This is a big improvement on the old conversion method that had me remove the motor belt. I still had alot of motor resistance, but this new method is effortless.

Short video to show the action of the lathe. The treadle is getting hung up on other machinery, but otherwise is a workable solution.

The three legs of the stool turned, and waiting to be drilled.

]]> http://www.maryostler.com/2010/06/triangular-stool-v1-0/feed/ 4 Cone Tent v1.3 ~ Hardware http://www.maryostler.com/2010/05/cone-tent-v1-3-hardware/ http://www.maryostler.com/2010/05/cone-tent-v1-3-hardware/#comments Wed, 26 May 2010 04:58:30 +0000 DirtyMary http://www.maryostler.com/?p=2131 So I have a conical tube of canvas. I now need to make a pole to support the whole shebang. Since my truck will only accommodate poles 6′4″ in length. I am going to have to make a two part sleeve/pole set up.

First I laminated two 2×3″ over night, and found a piece of square tubing out in the old metal pile.

Cut down the laminated 2×3’s so that they are the same size as the outside of the tubing.

I then tilted the table saw blade to a 45′ angle and cut a bevel down each corner. Octagonal poles.

I then measured the tubing and divided by 2.

The table saw left a small triangle of wood that needs to be knocked off with a chisel.

Mom & Dad got me chisels for my birthday. Kickass.

The small void in the corners of the metal tubing will be where I place metal hooks. Place to hang the cloak.

12′ of octa-pole.

With the original design of the tent, I was going to make a proper yurt ring for the domed effect, but as I screwed up, I know don’t care enough to get that fancy. Instead I just made up a jig to cut a 15″ disk on the band saw.

Chiseling out a square hole in the center of the disk.

The top of one of the octa-poles is cut down to square. the ledge of the octagon will support the disk.

Square peg in round disk.

I then painted the octa-poles with the never ending can of reddy-brown paint.

The yellow tubing got a coat of black tremclad.

Dad came into the shop and plopped down a portable hole from the scrap pile. Kick ass.

I also painted the roof ring and installed two pulleys. The ring section will be made into a  candle ring that will hang around the octa-pole.

]]> http://www.maryostler.com/2010/05/cone-tent-v1-3-hardware/feed/ 0 Inspired and Humbled http://www.maryostler.com/2010/05/inspired-and-humbled/ http://www.maryostler.com/2010/05/inspired-and-humbled/#comments Tue, 11 May 2010 20:25:33 +0000 DirtyMary http://www.maryostler.com/?p=2071  

I am in serious Awe. I need to make me a floor lathe.

yoinked from Stuart Kings blog

]]> http://www.maryostler.com/2010/05/inspired-and-humbled/feed/ 0 Another Good Weekend. http://www.maryostler.com/2010/04/another-good-weekend/ http://www.maryostler.com/2010/04/another-good-weekend/#comments Mon, 19 Apr 2010 14:34:29 +0000 DirtyMary http://www.maryostler.com/?p=2014  

Another good weekend has passed me by. I spent the majority of the weekend in the dusty depths of the wood shop. One major item I got off the list was making a set of Pal Mall mallets. It would have been easier to buy a set, but the commercially available set have such ludicrously short handles on the mallets. Longer handles = win.

I also got to play around with my axe, lathe and froe.  I cut up stump I had in the shop and turned a half round into a bark rimmed bowl. I had thought of Poll Lathe turning it…but I was lazy. I also used the froe to break of a thin strip of wood, and then tried planing it down to a flat board. That’s a skill I need a whole lot of work on.

Months ago, Morweena gave me a number of pine shelves to use in my evil plans. They sat there mocking me for months. I finally showed them whats what and cut them down and trimmed off the rounded edges. Now I have a bunch more room where the shelves had been living and a bunch of ready to go 1×3.5″ boards…. Woot.

I also got to move around a lot of plantage. The mulberry tree is starting to grow, ruhbarb has transplanted, and new bark mulch was installed in all the areas that needed it.

I also got some work done on the up coming games tourney, The mini siege engines got some more work done on them, and I started to read up on what it would take to make a siege engine company.  I need to start making armor that’s for sure. Dose it make me a bad person if I am late period English, dressed in Ottoman Turk Garb, and Fight in Japanese armor?

Good Weekend.

Random Posts

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I have an evil plan to run a siege engine boules/ golf tourneys at up coming events. Since I have only so many weekends off before camping season starts, I needed to get on with it.

I cut up one 2×2 board into (2) 20″ lengths, (6) 8″ lengths, and one 11″ section of 2×3. Two of the 8″ sections had 45′ angles cut off them. These will be used to help support the uprights.

The 2×3 piece of wood then has notches drawn on, by plunking a 2×2 piece in the corners. Once traced, I then used a carpenters square to straighten the lines out a bit.

The notches were cut out on a band saw

The 20″ lengths were marked 3/4″ in from both ends, and 1/2″ from the sides. I then drilled pilot holes, and countersunk them so we can cover the screws later on.

Assembly starts with the bottom base screwed together.

I then place the uprights on the base, and took the angled supports to figure out were I wanted the uprights to sit. I then took a pencil and marked the uprights position.

I drilled two more holes through the base on each side (pilot holes, and countersunk)

The uprights then were fastened with more screwage.

Before I started playing with the supports, I decided to attach the strike plate to the uprights. This way I could rest the onager uprights flat on the bench.

At this stage I place the supports in place, and since clamping angled piece a can be difficult, I used painters tape to hold the upright in the right place. Lots of tape is good! (forgot to take a picture… my bad.

Angle pilot holes and countersinks at 90′ to the supports.

I marked the tension rope hole approx 1″ back from the uprights. I think I should have gone a bit farther back as the strike arm now angles back slightly. I am not sure, but I think you want the strike arm to have a slight forward angle optimally.

Since this cheap nasty 2×2 is made of super soft hemlock (I think) I am using metal washers to protect the sides. I also drilled to smaller holes either side of the rope holes. This will keep the pressure rod in place.

Everything I need but the tension rope. 2 washers, 2 pins, 2 pressure rods (allen keys). I also have hammered in a nail atop of a 12″ wooden dowel. Just need to cut off the end.

The first one is almost done. The rope is small 1/8th braided stuff.

The final step is glueing in some dowel plugs to cover up the screw heads.

The first two are done. I only need two for siege engine boules, but a few more if I run a golf tourney later on.

]]> http://www.maryostler.com/2010/04/siege-engine-boules/feed/ 0 Good Weekend http://www.maryostler.com/2010/04/good-weekend/ http://www.maryostler.com/2010/04/good-weekend/#comments Tue, 06 Apr 2010 04:00:44 +0000 DirtyMary http://www.maryostler.com/?p=1976 Well the verdict on this weekend is in, and it was 4 kinds of goodness. Friday & Saturday I got to hangout with Agnes and some of the aprenti. It was a two day work on A&S stuff gabfest. I got a start on the final carpet cartoon, the wooden board games in the barony’s collection have been labeled and given inventory numbers, I assembled my Mom’s grandfather clock, got four more eric stands completed, and the designing for the Turkish folding table and the combat archery blunderbuss have gotten underway. The only down side to the weekend was I ended up quiting a project I was involved with, and have disappointed some people. It was like ripping off a band-aid, I expect it to hurt but it had to happen.

I turned a bunch of the eric stand tops and then painted them with red oxide mixed with linseed oil.

The final cartoon is coming along. I took all the things that were wrong with the first draft and used it to work out the kinks on this version. My hands are in severe trauma over all the coloring this weekend.

]]> http://www.maryostler.com/2010/04/good-weekend/feed/ 2 Break Apart Eric Stands v1.0 http://www.maryostler.com/2010/03/break-apart-eric-stands-v1-0/ http://www.maryostler.com/2010/03/break-apart-eric-stands-v1-0/#comments Tue, 30 Mar 2010 19:34:23 +0000 DirtyMary http://www.maryostler.com/?p=1854 There was a call out for bids on breakdown-able eric stands for the barony. I had played around with the idea, but have decided not to bid due to lack of information. I “HATE” commissions that leave all the decisions up to me. I am a student of Overkill, and left to my own devices I tend to make things over complicated. Just because I have decided not to bid on the barony’s erics, doesn’t mean I will not build a set.  I have chosen to make a set for myself. I want to make an eric for games such and Boules, Battledore, and my favorite pet project Dwyle Flonking. Here is the prototype.

Bought a 2×6x8′ spruce  board from the local lumberstore. I cut it down to two 33″ lengths, and two 15″ lengths.

The 33″ lengths were then ripped down to 1.5×1.5 billets.

The two 15″ sections were then ripped into two 2.25″x15″ boards.

These four sections will become the eric stand feet (2 sets)

I then marked out the width of the lap joint in the center of the feet.

Double checking the width of the dado against the feet width.

Lap joints now  cut out of top and bottom feet.

I was going for a foot some what like this candle stand. easy to do, but adds a little class than leaving it blunt cut ends. Yes its out of period, but so are so many things in the society….sigh.

To make sure the feet look the same I made a template out of scrap kicking around the shop. Its a little more elongated than the candle stand, but I want the feet to be wider for stability.

Upside down picture of the stand with the pattern traced out.

Cutting out the pattern on the bandsaw.

Double checking how it looks.

Drilled a 1″ hole through both the feet.

Pieces then glued together

Then clamped tight.

Moving on to the poles, I marked the center points on the ends.

and slapped it on the lathe. The billet was then turned down to a 1.5″ dowel, with 1.25″ on either end turned down to 1″.

One end was then cut on the band saw . I cut down into the 1.5″ dowel area just enough to accommodate the size rope I have for the project.

Next I cut a 3″ section off of one of the 33″ long billets . I drilled a 1″ hole in the center.

Double checked it fit  how I wanted it to on the dowel.

Slapped it on the lathe and turned it to knock off the sides and have a small bead that will make the dowel and cap blend together.

Picture of how the top fits together with the rope.

I have to make 6 more just like this one. I will also make one eric stand that has a 1″ dowel the whole length of the stand. This way I can take apart the 7 other stands and have the feet section slide down onto the oddball stand. Then I have to make a bag that will fit all of the stands together in a nice package. Depending on if I am burned out or not, I might make a few more.

I am thinking I might paint them red using lindseed oil and iron oxide. I post again when I am done this project.

]]> http://www.maryostler.com/2010/03/break-apart-eric-stands-v1-0/feed/ 4 Niddy Noddy http://www.maryostler.com/2010/02/niddy-noddy/ http://www.maryostler.com/2010/02/niddy-noddy/#comments Mon, 01 Mar 2010 03:55:12 +0000 DirtyMary http://www.maryostler.com/?p=1789 Last minute commission came up the other day. I was requested to make a Niddy Noddy. Its a tool used to wind skeins of  yarn. I have made one before, but entirely turned.  The period images that are kicking around show a turned handle (usually with cross bracing) and curved boards that the yarn winds around. Since the person asking for it is a persona wonk (bless them all) I forced myself not to go turning crazy.

More images of the quick build after the jump.

Used some scrap oak I had kicking about. I have used up a large amount of my cutoff  pile so beggars cant be choosers. I would have preferred a fruit wood (or almost any wood that is close grained).

Marked the center and1″ from each end.  The end winding boards will be drill around 1″ deep so I need to be careful maintaining the right diameter  on the handle to fit the end holes snuggly.

Made a test block so I could make quick checks on fit.

The winding end boards had a 1/2″ hole drilled  1″ deep .

Checked the fit again.

Marked out the cut pattern on one board. I cut out the piece on the band saw as I wanted to get this done quickly.

I then scraped all the tool marks off the piece, and the filed the edges so that all the sharp points were gone.

I used the first piece to transfer the pattern to the other side.

One side is fixed in place with a wood dowel pin. The other side is left unfix so the niddy noddy can be stored flat.

Finished Noddy.

Noddy on its first test run. Not sure I was doing it right. The winding seemed a little awkward so I am sure I was doing it wrong.

The wool skein twisted up and ready for the dye pot.

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